Weller WMS 1 Soldering Station — A short review

Summer is finally over it seems. Yesterday was the first noticeably colder and terribly rainy day and I have a feeling in my gut that I’m already incubating a nasty cold. I got soaked again while riding my bike back home to get into bed early. Yeah, I’ve got extra bikers gear to fend off the rain, but there’s always a place where the water and the cold find a way to creep in, with all the wind blowing from everywhere at once and whatnot. I’m dreading the dark winter hours… last year was just horrible. I could never live in northern countries with 6 months of permanent twilight and all the snow and ice. Shudder.

And now for something completely different:

I’ve used my trusty ERSA TIP 260 soldering iron for the last 15 years or so, and I’ve never had to replace the tip. It’s still as shiny as on the first day. Yes, I do treat it well.

Now I’ve made the step and have finally bought a more advanced piece of equipment, namely the WELLER WMS 1 soldering station. I didn’t go for the one with the additional battery pack, as I don’t plan to do any ‘wireless’ soldering in the field. Some 60 bucks well ‘not-spent’. I had looked at the WD1 as well, but I didn’t feel like spending close to 500 monetary units. It was bad enough that I had to wait almost two full weeks until it got delivered. I gave the shop a call and was told that ‘somebody’ (I curse you, do you hear me!?! One day of vastly accelerated bowel movements to you!) was on a shopping spree and emptied their stock completely.

The main impetus to get it was, and still is, the horrible trouble I have with soldering SMD RGB LEDs coming in a PLCC-6 5050 package. The plastic just melts way too easily. My TIP 260 is set to a fixed temperature of 350°C and melts the package like a hot knife cuts through butter.

The WMS 1 can be adjusted from 100°C to 400°C and packs a whoppin’ 40Watt heating element into the RT 3 tip. That way I can be sure I’ll be able to find the correct temperature for the job. As the heating element is in the tip itself, there’s not much thermal inertia and everything should work perfectly. The WMS 1 can quickly adjust for the energy/temperature loss in the tip due to melting of solder. My old TIP 260 works with a PTC heating element and sometimes it takes a while until it reacts to a drop in tip temperature when melting a big blob of solder. This is now a thing of the past. Nevertheless I will not abandon it and keep it for odd jobs that don’t require advanced soldering tools. One advantage of it is that it fits into the storage containers I use.

It comes with these parts: 12V, 50W switching power supply (no power switch), main unit (no power switch, GND plug), soldering pencil, soldering tip, soldering stand with brass cleaner. As the WSM 1 doesn’t come with a power switch (the WSM 1C has it, it also comes with a battery for portable soldering but it also costs 60 bucks more), you’ll want to watch standby power consumption. I’ve measured it with one of these ‘kill-a-watt’ like devices and it’s about 0.5W, which is tolerable. Nevertheless I switch off all of my gear with a master switch anyway. A switch in the main units wouldn’t do much good anyway, as the 0.5W standby loss is caused by the switching power supply itself. Fortunately the main unit starts up in OFF mode by default. No chance of accidental fires after a power loss.

The soldering pencil is very light and its cord is very flexible, what a joy. One of the most outstanding features of this soldering station is the extremely short heat-up and cool-down time, as well as temperature stability. It takes about 4 seconds to go from ambient temperature to 400°C!

The user interface consists of a big LC display and 2 touch sensor buttons labeled “-” and “+”. By pressing “+” or “-” shortly, you can quickly switch between two adjustable temperature setpoints. I use Sn60Pb40 solder and 240° for sensitive parts and 280°C for bigger ones with more copper. Pressing the buttons longer increases or decreases the temperature. With no buttons pressed the display switches back and displays actual temperature. Pressing both buttons for some time switches through the settings menu. You can adjust a standby temperature (called setback) and the associated timeout, the power off timeout, a global temperature offset and a lock code. It’s very easy to use and the manual only consists of a few pages. Standby mode and auto power off are only triggered if the soldering pencil rests in its stand. If in standby mode the iron is instantly reheated as soon as you pick it up again.

Weller WSM 1 - soldering station Weller WSM 1 - soldering stand Weller WSM 1 - soldering pencil Weller WSM 1 - soldering pencil Weller WSM 1 - soldering pencil Weller RT3 tip Weller RT3 tip Weller RT3 tip

Although it cost me A LOT, I give it a big thumbs up. Even if you don’t want to pay as much for a soldering station and are serious about electronics as a hobby, try getting a decent soldering station yourself. Not having to use 350°C for everything is sooo nice. Less burning of flux on the tip, less thermal stress for sensitive SMD parts, less oxidation of the tip and therefore less cleaning is needed :-)

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SUGRU — a short adulation

I had been waiting for my pack of SUGRU for quite a while. Fortunately they have successfully tackled the step towards mass production and it is now available through their website.

For those of you who might now have heard about this hyped new stuff, it’s silicone putty that comes in different colors, can easily be formed using bare fingers and after curing into elastic rubber it permanently sticks to all sorts of materials. Wood, glass, metal… you name it. Quite useful.

I used it to fix my bike’s U-lock problem. It was constantly hitting the frame, abrading the paint and damaging the aluminium underneath. Nothing special really, but this stuff just works ;-)

All fixed with SUGRU

Just like with ordinary silicone goop surfaces that must not be adhered to, should be treated with a water/dishwasher fluid mixture.

Bike damaged by my heavy U-lock Bike damaged by my heavy U-lock IMGP3524IMGP3524 Kneading a bit of Sugru Sugru blob 1 Sugru blob 2 Quick fix with some Sugru

There are may of possible uses for it. I’m planning to use some of it in electronics as well ;-)

One thing I’m missing is more colors though. Currently you can get these: orange, blue, green, black.

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Bad soldering day — A rip-off (literally)

Once in a while I sell one or two of the RGB LED RING boards. As not everybody feels comfortable with soldering SMD parts (and I’ve explicitly warned that it’s not that easy and that the RGB LEDs die easily) I do some ‘contract soldering’ from time to time as well.

Today I’ve killed 3 – THREE – of these friggin’ things, and I only have about 10 spares left. That’s a loss of more than 1€ of semiconductor. Time to get more spares it seems.

In this shot I managed to show what’s going belly up here. It’s always the green ones that die. As shown here, the bonding wire has been ripped off the left pad due to stress.

Dead RGB LED

Looking at this image again a few hours later, it seems the whole pad has moved to the left opening a gap of maybe 0.1mm. What a heap of shit. Could the surface tension of the solder create such a big force and pull the pad out of the somewhat softened plastic body?

I’m trying to keep the heat down and be quick, but today was a very bad soldering day. I have a feeling they wanted to save time and material in the bonding process and the wires are a bit overstressed anyway. Maybe they also ‘tweaked’ the gold content a bit and it got too brittle.

If these LEDs are soldered in a reflow oven this problem might not occur at all, as the epoxy around the wires will soften a bit. Given the correct temperature-vs-time profile is used. Time to get an SMD toaster? Maybe. Any recommendations? Hotplate? And I don’t want to spend a fortune on it as well. Oh BTW, I hate things that suddenly just sublimate without any signs of warning! I’m looking for reasonably priced quality products here. Nothing fancy, but fully functional with a minimal amount of cursing.

Something completely different:

Today was also the very first time that I just couldn’t reliably upload code using a bootloader with the chip running on the internal 8MHz RC oscillator. Maybe this is due to the somewhat elevated temperatures we’re having here right now. It’s in the middle of the night right now and I’m still getting 26°C in my room. Or maybe this AVR’s factory calibration is just terribly wrong. Luckily I had previously assembled another one of the boards, so I just swapped them. The good one is sent away and I keep the rebellious one for further testing. I’ll put it into the freezer tomorrow and see what happens to it.

Update 1: 08.07.2010:

Well, deep freezing the chip didn’t change anything. I’m using the Moderndevice BUB FTDI adapter to upload code. It’s got the option to switch between 3.3V and 5V for the signal lines, the supply voltage stays at 5V at all times. Using 5V for the signal lines throws upload errors most of the time in the verification stage of the bootloader. Switching to 3.3V works most of the time. I’m puzzled. There should be enough decoupling capacitors on the board. This is the very first time I’ve encountered this problem, and I’ve built and spread more than 40 boards around the world by now. When I get access to a suitable storage oscilloscope I’ll have the board send a test message a look at the signals and measure the actual baud rate and see if it’s withing the error margin.

Update 2: 29.07.2010:

Well, today I plugged many of these ring boards (mostly old prototypes) onto the perfboard I made for my bike and both atmega chips got warmer than expected. I was using the “baby milk bottle” method (a.k.a. my lips) to sense the temperature. It was near to unpleasant, so I guess it must’ve been above 45°C. Then I did the same thing to the up-to-date board that showed uploading problems. Same old. Then I removed the jumper used to bypass the onboard voltage regulator and the thing was still running, which it shouldn’t have – or so I thought. Fast forward a few minutes. Hint: 2 input pins were now exposed to VCC and GND. And they have clamping diodes ;-)

Anyhow. The uploading problems started to get worse and worse. End of story: I’ve replaced the darn chip with a new one and everything works as expected.

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VUVUZELAs take over EEVBLOG — can they be stopped ?

First of all here’s a link to Dave Jone’s famous EEVBLOG. The live show is broadcast using ustream. Due to the glorious invention of “daylight saving” by a bunch of wackos, 8:00 AM Sydney time equals 00:00 CET. The show lasts till 01:00 AM CET, which is still tolerable.

Content: 100% pure stream of consciousness, Q&A from the chat, shredded laptops, exploding multimeters, broken chairs and of course the famous rants.

EEVBLOG stream harassed by vuvuzelas ;-)

My favourite phrases so far: Unbox my Arse, Heap of Shit, WHY???

Oh BTW: BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ.

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‘Microcontroller Contest’ on Expli.de — Electronics kits to win!

I think this is targeted at German speaking folk. I don’t know what policy they have, but the contest entries should be written in German I guess. In case you haven’t guessed yet, EXPLI is a site with the same intent as Instructables, only in German ;-) EXPLI is derived from the verb ‘explain’ (I think).

Among the prizes are 2 AVR microcontroller starter kits, 3 retro short wave radio kits, 2 books about finding errors in electronic circuits and last but not least 3 PONG games.

Want to win something? Go check it out!

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