Someone, I won’t mention any names here, practically coerced me into upgrading this little project a bit.
Now there’s the option to add a bluetooth module (HC-05, JY-MCU “ZS-040″), which supports remote code upload, or a WiFi module (ESP8266-1) using a small adapter with integrated 3.3V regulator. The WiFi module requires quite a bit of current, so the on-board 3.3V regulator feeding the ATmega168P can’t handle that.
The bluetooth module should allow remote control from Android phones, the WiFi module should allow remote control using a web browser. All of this will be quite “interesting”, as coding applications is not what I usually do.
I finally was in the mood to tear down one of these filamented LED bulbs.
For some time now I’ve had issues with SATA bus-errors once in a while. The latest occurrence was a few days ago, a day after I had made a full backup.
I was kinda surprised when I got the info that TODAY a partial solar eclipse was going to happen.
Not too long ago one of these darn IKEA LED lamps (200lm, 4.3W) broke down after very mild usage. Well… it has happened again!
When I went into my bathroom one or two hours ago, I thought I was going blind, everything was so dark. But it was the friggin’ lamp…
It smell something… <sniff> <sniff> … yes, I smell BS!
…they did work as expected.
All the best!
Created with xscreensaver / fireworkx.
These LEDs have been in use for about 3.5 years now. 28 out of 64 show discolouration. Fortunately these are used as a source of indirect light, bouncing off of a slightly yellow-ish wall. The effect is noticeable, but not really annoying.
However, if these LEDs were used as initially planned (down-light for a working surface), it would be a major issue. These LEDs were acquired on ebay for not too much money. Maybe that is the root problem here.
As far as I can remember, I did make sure not to overdrive them. The emitters are connected 4-in-a-row. If variation in drive-current were the issue, I’d expect groups of 4 to change in the same way, but that is not the case. I blame variations in the LEDs themselves.
It has happened again!
After about 2 years of very mild usage (bathroom mirror light), an average on-time of about 5-10 minutes per day, yet another of my many IKEA LED lamps has died. This time it was a 4.3W one, not exactly high power.
Below you’ll find a couple of images, the results of a few tests I made, and probably some inevitable ranting.
Dear valued readers,
due to persisting attacks against my server, I have been forced to shut off commenting on this blog as well as the option to send me an email via the ‘about’ page.
If you absolutely need to get in touch with me and expect a timely reply, use Twitter.
I’m sorry for having to take these harsh measures, but it is the only way to keep the server running and behave well.
Due to repeated attacks against my server, I was forced to take down the “gitweb” web-interface + git read-only repository cloning access.
Please use my github page instead.
Direct all your curses towards the A-hole who done it.
Today I got my hands on a couple of ‘old’ computer magazines, which lay dormant at my parents’ place. They must have been forgotten quite some time ago.
I ripped out the obligatory CDs (no complimentary DVDs yet) for proper recycling and skipped through a few of them, looking at the insane prices back then. Some of the adds struck me as a bit odd, so I scanned them. In that process I discovered that my old flat-bed scanner (Canon Lide 20) has a couple of annoying dead pixels. I had to fix the resulting images by hand. Oh well…
For a couple of days now, the monitor doesn’t want to run on full brightness anymore. If I go up to 95%, it runs if warm, but might not start up. Set it to anything higher and it comes on for a couple of seconds and then shuts down the back-light completely. The image is still there though.
Oh, if you value your life, PLEASE unplug the mains cable and make sure the HV capacitor is empty. Always check the voltage with a suitable multimeter first. Only then you may think about touching it.
This upgrade is based on the loved-by-everybody WS2812B intelligent RGB LED and works just fine with Adafruit’s NeoPixel library.
The concept is – once again – rather simple. Whack a lot of WS2812B RGB LEDs onto a small board, add an ubiquitous ‘Arduino core’ and make sure everything fits nicely and works. Well, it worked.
Someone on the KiCad mailing list has created a windows installer of the BZR5025 code base, including libraries, demo projects, docs…
I’ve mirrored it on my server for your convenience.
Please note that this version uses library-tables and the new ‘pretty’ footprint format. It also uses the new “version 4″ board format, which is not backward compatible. Boards saved with this version cannot be opened with older KiCad releases before BZR4958.
Please take the usual precautions when working on boards that are dear to you – make backups and use a decent version control software (git comes to mind), so you can easily roll-back if something goes wrong. Commit frequently!
You may want to look into using a virtual machine (VirtualBox, VMware…) for testing these releases.
Don’t you just hate it when you run out of holes and have to use a bridge wire to some free patch on the proto-board? I thought so.